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Imagine dyeing your clothes with the colors of the Scottish rainforest. That's exactly what the Gordon brothers did in 1758 with Cudbear, a pigment derived from lichens. Thanks to historical documents, we now know that this color was more widespread than previously thought and was even used with synthetic dyes. During World War I, a British government project re-evaluated these plants, creating colored wool samples still preserved in Edinburgh. A story of science, nature, and fashion that bridges the past and present!

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Cudbear, discovered by brothers George and Cuthbert Gordon, was derived from lichens such as *Roccella tinctoria*. This pigment, initially used to dye fabrics, became popular for its durability and vibrancy. During World War I, with the scarcity of synthetic dyes, the British government promoted research on local plants, including lichens. A rare book of wool samples, preserved at the Royal Botanic Garden in Edinburgh, shows the results of these studies. In addition to Cudbear, lichens such as *Parmelia saxatilis* and *Parmelia physodes* were used to create a range of colors from yellow to brown. These studies not only revitalized the British textile industry during the war but also laid the foundation for future research in chemistry and botany.

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Authors:
Vanessa Habib
Date Published:
Original Article www.mdpi.com
Fact-check verified on 01/10/2025
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Creative Commons License CC BY-NC-SA 4.0

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